Understanding Carrier Oils: Your Complete Guide to Comedogenic Ratings & Fatty Acid Profiles
What Are Carrier Oils?
Carrier oils are plant-based oils used to dilute essential oils or as standalone moisturizers in skincare. Unlike essential oils, which are highly concentrated aromatic compounds, carrier oils are gentle, nutrient-rich, and safe to apply directly to skin.
The composition of each carrier oil determines how it interacts with your skin. Some oils absorb quickly and work beautifully for oily skin, while others provide rich moisture perfect for dry or mature complexions. Understanding these differences helps you make informed choices about the products you use daily.
Understanding Comedogenic Ratings
The comedogenic scale rates oils from 0 to 5 based on their likelihood to clog pores:
- 0-1: Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores)
- 2: Slightly comedogenic (may clog pores for some)
- 3: Moderately comedogenic (likely to clog pores)
- 4-5: Highly comedogenic (very likely to clog pores)
Important note: Comedogenic ratings are based on outdated rabbit ear studies from the 1970s-80s and don't always predict how an oil will behave on human facial skin. Many factors influence whether an oil will clog your pores, including:
- Your individual skin type and sebum composition
- The oil's fatty acid profile
- How the oil is processed and refined
- What other ingredients it's combined with
- How much you use and how often
Use comedogenic ratings as a starting point, but pay attention to how your skin actually responds.
Fatty Acid Profiles: The Real Story
The fatty acid composition of an oil is far more important than its comedogenic rating. Here's why certain fatty acids matter:
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6)
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing
- Helps regulate sebum production
- Supports skin barrier function
- Anti-inflammatory properties
- Best for: Oily, acne-prone, or combination skin
- High-linoleic oils: Grapeseed, hemp seed, pumpkin seed, rosehip
Oleic Acid (Omega-9)
- Rich, deeply moisturizing
- Enhances skin penetration
- Softening and conditioning
- May be too heavy for oily skin
- Best for: Dry, mature, or dehydrated skin
- High-oleic oils: Olive, avocado, macadamia, sweet almond
Alpha-Linolenic Acid (Omega-3)
- Powerful anti-inflammatory
- Calms reactive skin
- Supports barrier repair
- Best for: Sensitive, irritated, or inflamed skin
- High omega-3 oils: Hemp seed, chia seed, flaxseed
Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA)
- Rare omega-6 fatty acid
- Exceptional for barrier repair
- Anti-inflammatory and soothing
- Best for: Eczema, psoriasis, damaged barriers
- GLA-rich oils: Evening primrose, borage, black currant seed
Popular Carrier Oils at a Glance
| Oil | Comedogenic Rating | Primary Fatty Acids |
| Jojoba | 2 | Eicosenoic acid (liquid wax ester) |
| Rosehip | 1 | Linoleic (44%), Alpha-linolenic (34%) |
| Argan | 0 | Oleic (43%), Linoleic (36%) |
| Grapeseed | 1 | Linoleic (69-78%) |
| Sweet Almond | 2 | Oleic (62-86%), Linoleic (20-30%) |
| Avocado | 2-3 | Oleic (52-66%), Palmitoleic (2-13%) |
| Hemp Seed | 0 | Linoleic (54%), Alpha-linolenic (17%) |
| Evening Primrose | 2 | Linoleic (65-80%), GLA (8-14%) |
| Pomegranate Seed | 1 | Punicic acid (65-85%) |
| Sea Buckthorn | 1 | Palmitoleic (19-29%), Oleic (13-22%) |
| Macadamia | 2-3 | Oleic (55-67%), Palmitoleic (16-23%) |
Choosing the Right Oil for Your Skin Type
For Oily or Acne-Prone Skin
Look for high-linoleic oils with low comedogenic ratings:
These oils help regulate sebum production and won't feel heavy or greasy.
For Dry or Mature Skin
Choose high-oleic oils that provide deep moisture:
These oils penetrate deeply and help plump fine lines.
For Sensitive or Reactive Skin
Opt for anti-inflammatory oils rich in omega-3:
These oils calm inflammation and support barrier repair.
For Damaged Skin Barriers
Select oils with GLA or unique fatty acid profiles:
- Evening primrose oil (GLA)
- Borage oil (GLA)
- Pomegranate seed oil (punicic acid)
- Sea buckthorn oil (palmitoleic acid)
These specialized oils provide targeted barrier repair.
How to Use Carrier Oils in Your Routine
As a Standalone Moisturizer
Apply 2-4 drops to damp skin after cleansing. The water helps the oil spread and absorb more effectively.
Mixed with Other Products
Add a drop or two to your moisturizer or foundation for extra hydration and glow.
For Facial Massage
Use a more generous amount (4-6 drops) and massage in upward, circular motions to boost circulation and lymphatic drainage.
As a Cleansing Oil
Some oils (like jojoba or grapeseed) work beautifully as makeup removers. Massage onto dry skin, then rinse with warm water.
Blending Oils for Custom Solutions
You don't have to choose just one oil. Blending allows you to create a custom fatty acid profile that addresses multiple skin concerns:
- For combination skin: Mix high-linoleic and high-oleic oils (60% grapeseed + 40% argan)
- For anti-aging with acne concerns: Combine rosehip + sea buckthorn + hemp seed
- For extreme dryness: Blend avocado + macadamia + evening primrose
- For barrier repair: Mix pomegranate seed + sea buckthorn + hemp seed
Quality Matters
Not all carrier oils are created equal. Look for:
- Cold-pressed or CO2 extracted: Preserves beneficial compounds
- Organic when possible: Reduces pesticide exposure
- Dark glass bottles: Protects oils from light degradation
- Fresh oils: Check production dates; most oils are best used within 6-12 months
- Proper storage: Keep in a cool, dark place; refrigerate omega-3 rich oils
Common Myths About Carrier Oils
Myth: "Oil-free is better for oily skin"
Reality: The right oils can actually help regulate sebum production. Oily skin often lacks linoleic acid, which high-linoleic oils can provide.
Myth: "All oils clog pores"
Reality: Many oils have low comedogenic ratings and won't clog pores. It depends on the oil's fatty acid profile and your individual skin chemistry.
Myth: "Oils can't hydrate skin"
Reality: While oils don't add water to skin, they create a barrier that prevents water loss (occlusion) and many contain fatty acids that support the skin's natural moisture barrier.
Myth: "Natural oils are always safe"
Reality: Even natural oils can cause reactions in some people. Always patch test new oils, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies.
When to Avoid Certain Oils
Some situations call for caution:
- Nut allergies: Avoid almond, macadamia, and other nut-derived oils
- Active breakouts: Skip heavy, high-oleic oils until skin clears
- Fungal acne: Avoid oils high in oleic acid; stick to squalane or MCT oil
- Rosacea flares: Some oils may trigger flushing; test carefully
- Before sun exposure: Some oils (like citrus-infused oils) can increase photosensitivity
Explore Our Curated Oil Blends
Understanding carrier oils helps you make informed choices, but you don't have to blend your own. Our Botanical Body Oil Collection features carefully formulated blends designed for specific skin needs:
- Satin Coast Body Oil - Omega-3 rich blend for sensitive, reactive skin
- Citrus Coast Body Oil - Bakuchiol-enhanced formula for mature skin
- Silken Twelve Body Oil - Twelve-oil blend for extremely dry, dehydrated skin
Our Botanical Facial Oil Collection offers targeted solutions for facial skincare:
- Radiant Renewal Facial Oil - Bakuchiol and berry seed oils for anti-aging
- Luna Luxe Night Facial Oil - Fragrance-free bakuchiol blend for overnight repair
For those who prefer richer textures, explore our Body Lotions, Butters & Balms:
- Whipped Body Butter - Shea and mango butter in four coastal scents
- Botanical Moisturizing Lotion - Lightweight, fast-absorbing with five plant oils
Men's grooming needs are covered in our Beard Care Collection:
- Premium Beard Oil - Lightweight daily moisture and shine
- Conditioning Beard Balm - Styling hold with deep nourishment
And don't forget our Botanical Facial Cleansers:
- Melt Away Cleansing Balm - Seven botanical oils for makeup removal
- Bentonite Clay Cleansing Balm - Deep purifying face cleanser
The Bottom Line
Carrier oils are powerful skincare ingredients when chosen thoughtfully. Rather than relying solely on comedogenic ratings, consider:
- Your skin type and specific concerns
- The oil's fatty acid profile
- How your skin actually responds (patch test!)
- The quality and freshness of the oil
- How you'll use it in your routine
Start with one or two oils that match your skin's needs, observe how your skin responds over 2-4 weeks, and adjust from there. Your skin will tell you what it needs.
Want to dive deeper into the science behind our body oil blends? Read our companion article: Meet Your Botanical Body Oils: A Complete Fatty Acid Profile Guide.
Medical Disclaimer
The information provided in this article is for educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or medical condition. This content should not be considered a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition or skincare concern. Never disregard professional medical advice or delay in seeking it because of information you have read in this article. If you have a known allergy to any botanical oils or ingredients mentioned, consult with a healthcare professional before use. Individual results may vary, and patch testing is recommended before applying any new product to your skin.