Carrier Oils & Fatty Acids: Research Overview

Golden botanical oil dropping from a pipette into a ceramic dish, surrounded by rosehip berries and dried botanicals on a dark slate surface — Nature Coast Apothecary carrier oils

This article is for cosmetic skincare education and is not medical advice. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Our products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

Why We Published This

We get asked a lot: why these oils? Why rosehip and not olive? Why jojoba as a base? Why evening primrose in a body oil?

The honest answer is that our formulation choices are grounded in a meaningful body of published research on botanical oils, fatty acids, and how they interact with skin. We don't make medical claims — our products are cosmetics, not drugs — but we do believe our customers deserve to know why we choose what we choose.

This page is for the curious reader who wants to go beyond the label. We've summarized the research in plain language and linked to the peer-reviewed sources throughout. Everything here is educational context, not a product claim.

→ Looking for the shorter version? Start with 7 Carrier Oils That Nourish and Support Beautiful-Looking Mature Skin.

The Fatty Acid Foundation

Plant oils are primarily composed of fatty acids — long carbon chains that differ in length, saturation, and structure. These differences matter enormously for how an oil feels on skin, how stable it is on the shelf, and what the published research says about its cosmetic properties.

The two fatty acids that appear most consistently in the skin research literature are:

Linoleic acid (omega-6) — a polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) that is a key structural component of the skin's intercellular lipid matrix. It is considered an essential fatty acid because the body cannot synthesize it. Oils high in linoleic acid include sunflower, safflower, rosehip, hemp seed, grapeseed, and evening primrose.
Oleic acid (omega-9) — a monounsaturated fatty acid found in high concentrations in olive, marula, and avocado oils. Research has noted that oleic acid functions as a penetration enhancer and may affect the feel and behavior of the lipid layer on skin differently than linoleic acid.

A comprehensive 2018 review of 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (PubMed) concluded that oils with a higher linoleic-to-oleic acid ratio tend to be better suited for skin that feels dry, sensitive, or easily irritated — while high-oleic oils may be better suited for deeper occlusion in very dry skin types. This is one of the primary reasons our formulas favor linoleic-rich oils.

A second key review — Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Plant Oils (PMC) — examined sunflower, coconut, safflower, and other oils and found that the fatty acid composition of an oil is the primary driver of its cosmetic behavior on skin.

Oil-by-Oil Research Summary

Sunflower Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil is among the most well-researched botanical oils in the published literature. It is high in linoleic acid and has been studied in controlled settings for its effects on skin feel and moisture retention. The PMC review above and the 27-study PubMed review both include sunflower seed oil among the oils with the strongest published profiles for skin compatibility. We use it as a base in several of our body oil formulas.

Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosehip seed oil typically contains 47–50% linoleic acid and 33–40% alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), making it one of the most polyunsaturated carrier oils available. Its fatty acid profile has attracted consistent research interest. In one published review of rosehip and linoleic acid research, the high linoleic content of rosehip oil is discussed in the context of skin feel and appearance. Because rosehip is rich in PUFAs, it is oxidation-sensitive — which is why we always package it in amber bottles.

Argan Oil

Argan oil has a well-established research profile. A 2014 clinical study in postmenopausal women (PMC) found that both topical and oral argan oil use were associated with statistically significant improvements in skin hydration measures. Topical application results were superior to olive oil at 60 days. Argan's fatty acid profile — roughly 43% oleic and 36% linoleic — gives it a balanced feel: absorbs well, conditions without heaviness, and suits a wide range of skin types.

Jojoba

Jojoba is botanically unique: it is a liquid wax ester, not a triglyceride oil. Its molecular structure closely resembles the wax esters found in human sebum, which contributes to its smooth, non-greasy absorption. A 2024 PMC study found that topically applied jojoba wax supported moisture retention and enhanced extracellular matrix components including pro-collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis in skin cell models. It is also one of the most oxidatively stable carrier oils available, giving it an exceptionally long shelf life. We use it as our primary blending base.

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is one of the richest plant oils available, with a high oleic acid content (~70%) and meaningful levels of vitamins A, D, and E plus natural lecithin. Its richness makes it particularly well-suited to very dry or mature-feeling skin and to night formulas where deeper occlusion is welcome. The 27-study PubMed review includes avocado among the oils with published research supporting its use in botanical skincare.

Sea Buckthorn Oil

Sea buckthorn pulp oil is the richest known plant source of omega-7 (palmitoleic acid), a fatty acid that is also naturally present in human sebum. It is exceptionally rich in carotenoids (responsible for its vivid orange color) and vitamins C and E. Published research on sea buckthorn and skin is summarized in this research-informed review. Because of its intensity, we use sea buckthorn at a carefully calibrated concentration in our formulas.

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening primrose oil is one of the few plant oils that contains meaningful levels of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid. GLA is of particular interest in the research literature for mature and sensitive skin types. A PMC clinical study on GLA and skin found that evening primrose oil supplementation produced significant increases in plasma GLA and its metabolite DGLA, with an inverse correlation to skin condition severity scores. Because GLA-rich oils are oxidation-sensitive, we always blend evening primrose with antioxidant-rich companions and package our formulas in amber bottles to protect freshness.

Hemp Seed Oil

Hemp seed oil stands out for its near-ideal omega-6 to omega-3 ratio of approximately 3:1, which closely mirrors the ratio found in healthy skin lipids. It combines linoleic acid with small amounts of GLA and a favorable omega-3 balance. Dermatology researchers have described its fatty acid profile as "unusually rich" among seed oils. You can read more at Skin Inc. and in the PMC plant oils review.

Pomegranate Seed Oil

Pomegranate seed oil is the only known plant source of punicic acid (omega-5), a rare conjugated fatty acid with notable antioxidant properties. It also contains naturally occurring plant sterols and tocopherols. Its unique fatty acid profile has attracted research interest for mature skin formulas. The 27-study PubMed review provides broader context for antioxidant-rich oils in botanical skincare.

Overhead flat lay of botanical carrier oil ingredients including rosehip berries, pomegranate, avocado, and an amber dropper bottle on weathered white wood — Nature Coast Apothecary

A Note on Oxidative Stability

Oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids — linoleic, alpha-linolenic, GLA — are more vulnerable to oxidative rancidity than oils high in saturated or monounsaturated fats. This is why formulation and packaging choices matter as much as ingredient selection. At Nature Coast Apothecary, we use cold-pressed oils to preserve their bioactive fatty acid content, package in amber bottles to limit light exposure, and include natural antioxidants (vitamin E) in our blends to extend stability. We also formulate in small batches to ensure freshness.

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