Nature Coast Apothecary
Vitamin C Facial Oil - Oil-Soluble Vitamin C in Barrier-Supportive Base | 1oz
Vitamin C Facial Oil - Oil-Soluble Vitamin C in Barrier-Supportive Base | 1oz
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Oil-Soluble Vitamin C in a Barrier-Supportive Base
A straightforward approach to addressing uneven tone, photodamage, and barrier support using stable vitamin C in a lipid-compatible delivery system.
Formulation Overview
This facial oil uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate—a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that integrates into skin's lipid matrix rather than requiring water-based delivery. Unlike L-ascorbic acid formulations that oxidize readily and require low pH environments, this derivative remains stable at skin-compatible pH and penetrates through the stratum corneum more effectively due to its fatty acid structure.
The carrier oil blend provides both delivery and barrier support through complementary fatty acid profiles.
Active Ingredient
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (3%)
A vitamin C derivative with four hexyl chains attached to ascorbic acid, creating a lipophilic molecule that dissolves in oils rather than water. Research indicates it addresses hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, supports collagen synthesis through its role as a cofactor in proline hydroxylation, and provides antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation. The esterified structure allows it to remain stable in formulation and convert to active ascorbic acid within skin cells.
Carrier Oil System
Milk Thistle Seed Oil (92%)
Fatty Acid Profile: ~60% linoleic acid (omega-6), ~25% oleic acid (omega-9), ~10% palmitic acid
The base oil for this formulation, selected for its high linoleic acid content and notably dry skin feel. Contains silymarin, a flavonolignan complex with documented antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show it supports ceramide synthesis and lipid barrier function. Absorbs quickly without residual oiliness, making it suitable for layering.
Ximenia Oil (3%)
Fatty Acid Profile: ~40% ximenynic acid (C26 omega-6), ~30% oleic acid, very long-chain fatty acids (C30-C40)
A rare African seed oil containing ximenynic acid—a 26-carbon acetylenic fatty acid with antioxidant properties. The presence of very long-chain fatty acids (up to 40 carbons) is unusual in botanical oils and may contribute to its rapid absorption and occlusive properties. Research suggests it supports microcirculation in dermal layers.
Abyssinian Oil (2%)
Fatty Acid Profile: ~60% erucic acid (omega-9), ~15% oleic acid, ~12% linoleic acid
Cold-pressed from Crambe abyssinica seeds, this oil is high in erucic acid (C22:1), a long-chain monounsaturated fatty acid that provides slip and oxidative stability to the formulation. Contains vitamins A and K. The molecular structure creates a light, non-greasy texture while supporting skin elasticity.
How It Works
The lipid-soluble vitamin C integrates into your skin's lipid barrier, where it can address pigmentation at the melanocyte level, support collagen production in the dermis, and neutralize free radicals in lipid-rich environments. The carrier oils provide essential fatty acids that support barrier integrity and ceramide synthesis, while the dry-oil texture allows for comfortable daily use and layering with other products.
What to Expect
- Gradual improvement in skin tone evenness over 8-12 weeks of consistent use
- Support for barrier function through essential fatty acid delivery
- Antioxidant protection against environmental oxidative stress
- Lightweight texture suitable for all skin types, including oily and combination
- Stable formulation that doesn't require refrigeration or special handling
Application
After cleansing, apply 3-4 drops to face and neck. May be used morning and/or evening. For daytime use, follow with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ for comprehensive photoprotection. Can be layered under or over moisturizer depending on your skin's needs.
Formulation Details
Four ingredients. No water, silicones, synthetic fragrances, or preservatives. Small-batch production in amber glass to protect oil stability. Vegan.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is this different from water-based vitamin C serums?
Most vitamin C serums use L-ascorbic acid dissolved in water, which requires low pH (around 3.5) and oxidizes when exposed to light and air, turning brown and losing efficacy. This oil-based formula uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid-soluble derivative that remains stable at skin-compatible pH, doesn't oxidize readily, and penetrates deeper into the lipid layers of your skin barrier. The oil delivery system also provides barrier support through essential fatty acids.
Can I use this if I have oily or acne-prone skin?
Yes. The milk thistle base oil has a notably dry, non-greasy feel and is high in linoleic acid—a fatty acid that oily skin types are often deficient in. The formulation absorbs quickly without leaving residue and won't clog pores. The lightweight texture makes it suitable for all skin types, including combination and oily.
Does this need to be refrigerated?
No. Unlike water-based L-ascorbic acid serums that degrade quickly, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is stable at room temperature. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The amber glass packaging provides additional UV protection.
How long until I see results?
Vitamin C works gradually. Most people notice improvements in skin tone evenness and radiance within 8-12 weeks of consistent daily use. Antioxidant protection begins immediately, but visible changes in hyperpigmentation and skin texture develop over time as cellular turnover occurs.
Can I use this with retinol or other actives?
Yes. Oil-soluble vitamin C is generally well-tolerated with other actives. You can use it in the same routine as retinoids, niacinamide, or AHAs/BHAs. If using multiple actives, consider applying vitamin C in the morning (with SPF) and retinol at night, or alternate days if your skin is sensitive.
Do I apply this before or after moisturizer?
Either works, depending on your skin's needs. For oily skin, this may be sufficient on its own or under SPF. For dry skin, you can layer it under a richer moisturizer. For combination skin, try applying it after a lightweight moisturizer to seal in hydration. Experiment to find what works best for your skin.
Can I use this morning and night?
Yes. For morning use, always follow with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, as vitamin C provides antioxidant protection but doesn't replace sun protection. Evening use supports overnight barrier repair.
Why only 3% vitamin C when other serums have 10-20%?
Concentration percentages aren't directly comparable between water-soluble and oil-soluble forms. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is lipophilic and penetrates differently than L-ascorbic acid. Research shows 3% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate provides effective results without the irritation potential of high-concentration water-based formulas. Higher isn't always better—stability and bioavailability matter more than percentage.
Will this stain my pillowcase or clothing?
No. This is a clear to pale yellow oil that absorbs into skin and won't transfer to fabrics. Allow a few minutes for full absorption before applying makeup or lying down.
How many drops should I use?
3-4 drops is sufficient for face and neck. A little goes a long way due to the lightweight, spreadable texture. One 1oz bottle should last approximately 2-3 months with daily use.
Ingredients: Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Seed Oil; Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate; Ximenia Americana (Ximenia) Seed Oil; Crambe Abyssinica (Abyssinian) Seed Oil.
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